Hann sells his Afghanistan tours as a chance to see the country’s rugged outback while sleeping on dirty teahouse floors and tackling the country’s roads in minibuses that buck like mechanical bulls. It’s also an opportunity to gamble your life on his instincts and experience in order to be a tourist in a place that barely has any. There are no backpackers or bus-tour day-trippers in Afghanistan, and proximity to danger is the real essence of a Hann trip. His tour is a chance to court your own demise—a short walk on the Hindu Kush’s dark side. If you were lucky, you would feel more alive at the end. If you weren’t? It was best not to think about that.